Whether you see St Anton ski resort as a small town or as a large village, it is a top class resort, with magnificent terrain both on and off piste, matched by a relentless party spirit. Skiing arrived in between the world wars, and is “according to some” the home of alpine skiing. In the 1930’s the Galzig Cable Car arrived and the Arlberg ski school was formed.
St Anton has 2 lift linked ski resorts, St Christoph and Stuben. St Christoph is famous for the Hospiz, it has an extensive history, starting life as a monestary and being rebuilt many times, it is now an exclusive 5 star hotel. The Hospiz dominates St Christoph village which is geared towards affluent visitors who shun noisy nightlife.
Stuben is quieter still, with several affordable family run hotels. Until 2001 Nasserein was a poor relation to St Anton, being linked only by bus, but in 2001 the Nasserein Bubble was added that will take you up to Gampen, now Nasserein provides cheaper accommodation with excellent access to the skiing and with only a quick bus ride or 10-15 minute walk to St Anton itself.
St Anton Ski Area

View from Kapall, with the lift open / close signs availbale at all major points
The St Anton ski area includes three main areas, the south facing Galzig / Valluga area pistes, accessed mainly by the Galzig bahn and the Kapall area, accessed to Gampen by the Gampen Chair or the Nasserein bahn. The other St Anton ski area faces north, Rendl and is accessed from the new Rendlbahn.
There are beginner nursery slopes located on the main St Anton pistes and in the Nasserein area. I’d recommend using the beginners slopes in the Nasserein area as it’s more extensive and seemed to be quieter. However St Anton is really not a beginners resort, usually about 3 days into the first week of lessons you would progress up the mountain, but I can’t think of a single blue that I would have fancied going down after 3 days of lessons! If you’re adventurous and with some gusto then I’m sure you would improve at St Anton far quicker than you would at any other resort.
It is advanced and expert skiiers that will enjoy St Anton the most. For intermediates the blue runs are potentially red runs in other resorts, although I did feel that the red and black runs weren’t massively harder than other resorts. For those looking to progress to expert skiiers then you have the option of the Ski Routen runs, marked by diamond piste markers instead of circles. These are marked off piste runs which are provided to provide a safer route down (note they are not patrolled though and avalanche care still needs to be taken.) In reality though most were well trodden and a good, safe challenge. For experts there is plentiful off piste to be tried within the resort, including the famous run off the back of the Valluga only accessible from the Valluga II cable car, which you are only allowed up if accommpanied by a guide. This run leads back to Zurs and is the only way to reach Zurs without getting on a bus or driving.
Intermediates may best enjoy Stuben’s North slopes, they will be best in the area in warm weather, but of course will be on the chilly side! There are several great reds here with views up the mountain to Zurs and Lech. When we went this was definitely a quieter area that the main St Anton areas. There were certainly no lift queues here, but you will be riding several old 2 man chairs so don’t be in a rush to get anywhere here.

The design forward Galzig Bahn - St Anton
Speaking of lift queues, at Easter there weren’t really many considering it was the holiday season. At the Nasserein bahn, yes the queue looked longish, but actually was not more than 10 minutes in the morning “rush hour”. At other times there was around a 2 minute wait to be had. The other lifts barely had queues at all, but the one we struggled with most was the connector chairlift between Kappall and Galzig areas, the Zammermoos, this provides good access without going back to St Anton but you may have a 15 minutes wait on your hands, this is made worse by the fact it’s also at the end of the only black run in the Galzig area (number 2). Most other chair lifts are fast and new 4 / 6 seaters, some of which are heated, a godsend in colder weather. The other thing to add about the lift system, is that the designers really have thought about the usability of the lifts, the Galzig bahn now is accessed at the ground and then loops up to reach the wire (see picture), there are escalators at the Rendlbahn and Nasserein bahn from ground to bring you up to the lift, at most lifts there are moving carpets to ease you on and many have heated seats.
The Kappall area provides what feel like less skiing as it’s more compact but does have several good blue and red runs, and also a lovely black that runs all the way from the top lift down to the Nasserein bahn. The other area is the Rendl area, this year December 2009, the new Rendl bahn was opened, moving the access to this area into the centre of town (100 metres from the Galzig bahn). The bubble is an 8 seater and heated and cuts the lift time on the previous bubble by a third. The Rendl is again an intermediates playground with some good reds and the only snow park in St Anton. There are also several blues but the only way down is by a windy long red, however you could get the bubble back down instead of navigating this.
St Anton Apres Ski

The legendary apres ski bar in St Anton - The Mooserwirt
The apres ski in St Anton is legendary and centres around several piste side mountain restaurants until the early evening. The Krazy Kangaruh, just off the main run from the Galzig area was the first. However in more recent times the Mooserwirt, on the other side of the piste, has become more popular. This plays traditional German folk music mainly and is pumping by mid afternoon. Be warned it will be absolutely rammed, so get there earliesh to get a space for a large group. The ski back to town (they both close at 8pm) is a snow cannon slalom, short but often performed imperfectly.
If you have any energy left after the Mooserwirt or Kangaruh then stay in the pedestrian street, and eat at Schwarzer Adler the Alte Post, the Post and the Sport are good options. Late on Apres ski centres around the Funky Chicken (rated highly by our dinner table German friends) starts at 11pm and goes on till late. Slightly older visitors may prefer the Platzl or Underground. Dancing is available at the Kandahar or Postkellier.
St Anton Accommodation

Hotel Tirolerhof - St Jakob near St Anton
There is plenty of accommodation in and around St Anton, we stayed in St Jakob, just 2km down the road from Nasserein and only 4 minutes on the number 5 bus (leaving at 08-40, 9am and 20 minutes there after in the mornings. The hotel was called Hotel Tirolerhof and it really is a great option if you’re looking for a good value hotel in or around St Anton. However if you really must stay in St Anton, try Hotel Reselehof in Nasserein, which has a good reputation (apparently re opening though in November 2010) or there are plenty of chalets run by tour operators in St Anton itself. There are also many many Pensions (B&B) find all of these on the St Anton tourist website, but one very reasonable one is the Haus Rali from 275 euros per person for a week including a 6 day lift pass. Buses connect all the main area, and they are extremely efficient, don’t be late, because they won’t wait (as we discovered)!
Our verdict on St Anton ski resort
All in all we loved St Anton ski resort, it’s a great area for progressive skiers, though not a great area for beginners, and a brilliant area for apres ski lovers.
Also check out our posts on the lush Arlberg Well.com spa and Lech and Zurs ski areas (available to ski on your lift pass though only accessible by road.)